Interfered

For some reason today, this made me smile.

2009oct260731

Posted in Photography: Travel: England | Tagged , , , , | Comments Off on Interfered

600 Years of the Lympstone Church Tower

On September 24th 2009 the tower of the Lympstone Parish Church celebrated it’s 600th birthday.
To put that in some sort of comprehension, that’s 6 years before the Battle of Agincourt, which, 200 years later, Shakespeare describes in his play Henry V.
I don’t think that I comprehend that amount of time, so as a distraction here are some pictures of the celebrations.
The first five pictures are on Sept 24th, of the official ceremony at the church, and the ringing of the bells.
After that, on Sept 26th, the Royal Marine Band began their show outside The Globe Pub. They marched up The Strand -which is the main street through Lympstone- to play a few songs in front of The Swan.
Once done at The Swan, the whole village followed the band up The Strand to a field next to the church for a beautiful sunny afternoon to celebrate the history of the church at the village fete.


Sept 24, 2009.

Sept 26, 2009.

Posted in Photography: Travel: England | Tagged , , , , , , | Comments Off on 600 Years of the Lympstone Church Tower

On A Stroll Down The Lanes…

…between Lympstone and Woodbury Common, these sights might cross your path.

Posted in Photography: Travel: England | Tagged , , , , , , | 1 Comment

What Not To Say In A Pub

      Sunday afternoon and I’m walking in the drizzle along the Exe Estuary. It’s not raining hard enough to put up the umbrella, just enough to gently bead water on the right side of my glasses from the soft tail wind.
      I am supposed to be at home editing stories or photographs, but I need to get out. I need to be out of the house, to be somewhere else for a short time.
      My excuse is baseball. The Angeles are playing the Red Sox in the third game of a playoff series. The Angeles won the first two, and could will it all tonight. Adding vague credence to this excuse, is that most of the games are at three in the morning here. While this one is at five in the afternoon.
      The reason I am walking into Exmouth is the satellite system in England. It is a monopoly called ‘Sky’ which is owned by Rupert Murdoch (also of Fox News ownership). Almost all the sports are an extra package added to the basic package, which my parents don’t have. None of the pubs in Lympstone have it either.
      I don’t have a problem walking all the way to Exmouth for the game, it’s really just an excuse to get out, I don’t really care who wins, I just like the excitement, the emotion of the playoffs. It’s just an added bonus that the Angeles are my home team, the one my brother has season tickets to.

      There’s a pub called ‘The Duke’ just steps away from the train station in Exmouth, with large we-have-HD-sports-here signs.
      The pub is empty on a Sunday afternoon. It was not the cozy warm classic British pub, but open and spacious, with at least eight flat screen TV’s scattered on the walls and above the bar.
      There was a man, who might have been in WWII sitting staring at his pint on the bar, he was missing some teeth and completely ignored me. When he spoke to the bartender, I couldn’t understand what he was saying. The bartender said I could watch the game and poured me a pint. When the time for the game arrived, I asked if he could change the channel of the screen in the corner, but he said that because of the licensing laws from Sky, they could only show one type of sport at a time. They would need two licenses to show two games, and that was expensive, so they didn’t do it.
      I questioned him if this was all right, because no one else would want to watch the game, but he said there were no other sports this afternoon so I was fine.
      So I sat at the bar.

      After an inning or two, a young man came to the bar, and obviously knowing the bartender, asked why we were watching this. The bartender said there was an American who wanted to watch it, and pointed at me.
      The young man was instantly smiles and came over to chat.
      “Where are you from?”
      “Los Angeles.”
      “I went there once, I stayed in Inglewood.”
      “That’s not a very nice area.”
      “Yea, I just wanted a place to stay near the airport, didn’t I?”
      He was of average height, and slim, but with an aura of hidden strength. A man who drinks and smokes, but looks like he works outdoor, or with heavy lifting which keeps him in good shape. He stood at the bar, ignoring the empty stools, lightly moving from foot to foot with nervous energy the whole time we talked.
      He looked up at the screen with me, “This is one hell of a complicated game, one of these days I have to go and see a match, to try to understand it.” So I tried to describe the game to him.
      “So how many people come up per inning?”
      “Well it depends on how many runs they score.”
      That ensued a five minute convoluted conversation about outs and runs and people left on base.
      After he seemed to somewhat understand that, we watched a few moments in silence.
      “Why is he just walking down the line?”
      “He was walked.”
      “He doesn’t have to hit it?”
      “Not if they throw him four balls.”
      I tried to describe the theory of balls and strikes.
      “Ok, then why wasn’t he out then?”
      “Because there were two strikes and you can’t be out on a foul ball with two strikes.”
      “This game has a lot of rules, doesn’t it?”
      “Yea.”
      We talked of other things.

      My new friend, Daniel, talked about how he loved the Lord of the Rings books, but was disappointed with the movies. “They changed it around,” he said, and then he went off describing something to do with how the character Galadriel was different and how it changed the story, I tried to understand, but suddenly realized that he out geeked me on the Lord of the Rings. I hadn’t expected that from a guy sitting in a pub on Sunday afternoon, but who was I to judge, as I was doing the same thing. He discussed how The Lord of the Rings should have been 15 one-hour episodes, and then we discussed the whole final battle in the shire and how it should have been inthe movie.
      Then he talked about when he was in the army. He wasn’t in very many firefights in Iraq he said. “But this one time, the bullets were whizzing over our heads, and we just kept pointing our guns over the bank and shooting back.” That was when one of his friends was shot. “The bullet when in the front corner of his skull, and blew out a big chunk of the back of his head, but he just kept firing, holding on to his gun not knowing what was going on. One of the other guys went and picked up a chunk of his skull that was lying on the ground, “why are you picking that up! Keep shooting!” I yelled at him. But he’s fine now. Just went in one side and out the other. Lives a normal life just like us, and has the piece of skull on his mantelpiece.”
      I had no idea what to say to that.

      “When I lived in England 20 years ago,” I asked Daniel, “everyone flew the Union Jack, but now everyone seems to fly the one, what do you call it? With the red cross on white?”
      “St. Georges Cross. It’s the English flag.”
      “But what is the Union Jack?”
      “It’s a combination of the English, Scottish, Welsh and Northern Irish flag, while St. Georges Cross is the English Flag.”
      “So St. Georges Cross is a British flag?”
      “No, It’s the English Flag.”
180px-flag_of_englandsvg
      He went on to explain it this way. The Union Jack is the British flag for the empire. The Canadians, the Australians, and all the others that the British Empire once ruled over are part of the “British” Empire. St George’s Cross is the flag for the “English”. He then pulled up his sleeve to show off the St. Georges Cross tattoo on his left shoulder with ‘England’ written underneath.
      He summed it up this way. “Those who come over and live here, they are British. Those of us who were born here are English.”
      Now I understand why at the English football matches, they fly the red and white St. George’s Cross. The Union Jack is a conglomeration flag. While the cross is specifically English.
      It seems to have nationalistic undertones. It seems to say “For those of us who were born in England, for those of us who are truly English, we fly the St. George’s Cross. For those not truly English, you can fly the Union Jack because you are just British.”
      I have never been very comfortable with nationalism. I tend to believe in human beings, and the world, rather than one country being intrinsically better than another. So the rise of the use of the Cross of St. George makes me a little nervous.
      But there might be another way of looking at it. The Union Jack was a symbol of the British Empire. It’s world domination, which is now gone. England is now just a part of Europe, and the Union Jack is not the correct symbol for their place in the world. The red and white cross is the symbol for the space between the southern border of Scotland and the English Channel.
      Maybe that’s how it should be.

      The game continues and Daniel and I continue to talk. Three men arrive and sit down at the bar next to us. They ask the bartender why there is this on the television. He motions over to me and says the American wants to watch it.
      The man farthest from me, and facing me, had a tall gawky demeanor, with black Buddy Holly glasses. He smiles and said something lighthearted about baseball and America.
      The man closest to me was facing away, and never turned. I never saw his face.
      The man in the middle, facing the bar was in his early forties, short and wide and strong. He was bald on top, with just a crown of hair around the edges.
      At this point Daniel and I were on our forth, maybe fifth, pint of beer.
      The man in the middle leaned over at me and said, “Then why do they call it the World Series?”
      I looked over at him smiling, with a sarcastic grin on my face, and said, “Because it’s the greatest nation on earth.” And laughed.
      Metaphorically, the needle skipped on the record and the pub went silent.
      I instantly realized that this was not the right thing to say.
      Daniel whispered to me that it was not the right thing to say.
      I looked over at the man “Hey, I was being sarcastic. It was just a joke.”
      He did not smile or look in my direction.
      He started to mumble about how ‘You’ would have never won World War I without ‘Us’, or that ‘You’ would never have won World War II without ‘Us’. There was nothing I could say, and I was getting nervous, as now the drunken Daniel was whispering things at my face and lightly bouncing on his toes. He whispered things like: “backcountry cunts” “there’re just a bunch of wankers” “fuckin’ ignorant wankers.”
      His whispers were not very quiet.
      Was I about to get in a fight? Were these three guys going to beat me up for being American? I felt the adrenaline in my fingers, and my drunken fuzziness dissipate.
      The man in the center was still mumbling things, when he mumbled something about a damn peace prize. I jumped back into the conversation, assuming the Nobel Peace Prize Obama received two days earlier was something we could agree on.
      “He hasn’t deserved it yet,” I said, “but we’re all hoping that one day he will.” But the man kept mumbling while staring at the bottles behind the bar. Then the man in the Buddy Holly glasses said, “Hey, he’s agreeing with you.”
      This seemed to pull the man out of his mumbles so I plunged on, “You know, the only reason he got it is because he’s not Bush.” That got a small smile from everyone, so we spent a few happy minutes bashing George Bush, and all seemed to be forgiven.
      But I couldn’t help notice that the bald man kept giving me weary looks.
      The attitude of the pub had changed, what felt open and clean earlier, felt cold and forbidding now. I looked around the bar and noticed that it was mostly young men in the bar, and they wore rugby or football jerseys. I suddenly realized that I was in a local sports bar, and the drinkers were probably not overly friendly to any sort of foreigner.
      I suddenly got the feeling that someone was going to walk up and say “you’re not from around here, are you boy?”
      Daniel whispered he wouldn’t mind getting in a fight.
      It was now the seventh inning of the game and I went outside to have a cigarette. By the time I came back in, all the screens were showing darts.
      I looked at the bartender and quietly said, “I guess I’m not watching the baseball any more.” He avoided looking at my eyes by staring at the floor, saying he had had some requests for darts.
      I finished my pint, said goodbye to Daniel, and left the pub.
      I walked quietly, with my hands stuffed in my pockets, and was in a foul mood. Damn that asshole for being ignorant and stupid. He’s the one that ruins it for the rest of us.
      I sat slumped on the train watching the black night grey with drizzle. The conductor, after checking my local discount car, and hearing that I was just traveling one stop up the line, told me to not worry about it, and walked up the train with out making me pay.
      That made me feel a little better, but I was still in a foul mood and didn’t want to go home. At The Swan, next to Lympstone station, I ordered a pint and pulled the Terry Pratchett out of my pocket to relax.
      I had never officially met the bartender, but my father knew him from working on local building sites. The bartender was tall and slim, with large shoulders, and was missing a few of his front teeth.
      My mind-in-a-foul-mood assumed him as another laborer/drinker/unthinking type.
      A few minutes later, when I glanced up from the book, he asked “Which one?”
      I answered with “Guards! Guards!” and he smiled, saying that that was one of his favorites, but also liked ‘Feet of Clay’ and ‘Moving Pictures.’
      We chatted for a few moments about the Diskworld books until he went off to serve another customer.
      I smiled because he was something I didn’t expect. I had placed him in a category, but he didn’t fit in it. He was a human being, not a category. And I realized that I had used the same stupid stereotype that the asshole in the other pub had used. I just hoped that I would never be as angry and blind as he was.
      I felt better about the world, as I went back into the Terry Pratchett, and found out later that the Angeles had come back in the ninth inning to win. I wish I could have seen it.

Posted in Writing: Travel: England | Tagged , , , , , | 3 Comments

6 Photographs: Devon, England


Possession is nine tenths of the law.


Standing for 600 years


Slipping into the River Exe


Honor system flowers available in Lymstone


Boat moorings in Lympstone Harbour


Self-portrait in Lympstone Harbour

Posted in Photography: Travel: England | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Not So Sweet

      Today was sunny again, after three days of constant drizzle. I don’t want to sound like I’m complaining. I enjoy the rain, the gray days sitting inside, looking out the window and dreaming. But I also enjoy, after the rain, the wide pale blue sky, with a dot of a sun, straining to warm the land.
      So today, I went for my afternoon walk to Exmouth. It was cold when I set out, with the sun penetrating the air with its light, but not its heat. The path beside the field was still muddy, with sliding boot prints, mud pressed brown leaves and a clean light smell of water and grass, with an underlay of earth and manure.
      The tide was just leaving, so the abandoned boat engine was half visible in the water.
      Once in Exmouth, I skipped the fish and chip shop to visit the bakers.
      With my lunch in my hand, I walked down to the seaside and ate my desert first, because damn it, why the hell not?
      It was a jam doughnut.
      The first time I asked for a doughnut at the pastry shop, I asked for a ‘Jelly’, and was mildly rebuked by the lady behind the counter with a sharp glance and a quick ‘Jam’. Which she instantly realized was a bit too quick and harsh, so she gave me a big smile.
      Jam and jelly doughnuts are essentially the same, except for the outer coating. The American one is glazed, or the sugar is poured on, while the British version has millions of tiny crystallized sugars stuck to the outside. The crystallized sugar falls and collects in the folds of my shirt and sticks to the corners of my lips so I can lick it off afterwards.
      But the reason I visit this shop is the pasties. Pasty is pronounced with a long a sound, and is different from the American pastry, or the things that some girls use while working in strip clubs.
      The pasty was originally created in Cornwell so long ago that no know really knows why it was originally created. But the general theory is that the miners ate them for lunch while they were working underground, because pasties are wonderfully portable.
      A pasty is simply a piecrust wrapped around meat and potatos. The pasties from ‘The Crusty Cob’ on Exmouth high street are wonderful if for no other reason because it tastes like they soaked in vats of butter before baking. They are shaped like the letter D and the first bite into one of the corners, is crispy on the outside, but soft and moist and warm on the inside. Little pieces of the crust flake off and settle with the crystallized sugar on my shirt.
      Who said there is no such thing as beautiful British food.
      Then I took a drink of my can of soda (330 ml, not 12 oz.) and my taste buds sank. It was a ‘Tango’ apple. Which is the equivalent of a ‘Fanta’ orange. When I picked it up at the store, I took a quick glance at the side and it said “No artificial…” and so I bought it.
      It was not the taste of apple that disappointed me, because I wasn’t expecting the greatest apple juice in the world, but the after-taste. That horrible -chemical waste- aftertaste of artificial sweetener –in this instance aspartame.
      I reread the side of the can and it said “No Artificial Colour or Flavour.” But nothing about no artificial sweetener. I hate advertising departments.
      I assume there are millions of people out there that don’t notice this stuff, bur for some reason I always notice it, and it always annoys me.
      And the British have added a whole new dimension to my horror by adding it not only to apple juice, but also to water.
      But lets start with the three reasons why I dislike artificial sweeteners. One, they taste horrible, like the after-effect from some chemists nightmare. Two, I always feel like it’s going to give me asbestos like cancer (yes I smoke, what about it?), or blow up my trans fat heart (there is nothing wrong with battered chips). Three, I find it insulting to the rest of the (starving) world, that we, who have so much food, need to spend our time and energy creating a chemical to trick our taste buds into thinking we are eating something sweet. Rather than spend that time and energy trying to feed the world.
      Ok, off my soapbox, and back to the stunning stupidity that someone feels the need to make apple juice sweeter. Isn’t it sweet enough? Without pouring more sugar in? And not just adding more sugar, but adding fake sugar? What are we going to do next, start injecting our apples with aspartame?
      But this isn’t the first time I came across this in England. I bought a bottle of sparking water with lemon and it had aspartame in it. I’m beginning to think the company who makes this stuff controls the whole British beverage industry.
      I found that there is sweetened and unsweetened sparkling water.
      Adding sugar to water? What the hell is wrong with you people?
      Ok enough of that.
      I put away my Tango apple, and happily munched on the pasty. The beef was soft and warm, floating in the thick brown gravy, which gave off a homely, comfort-food odor. The small slices of potato stayed solid on my tongue, until they disintegrated with an easy bite.
      The beach had a scattering of people, some laying on the sand soaking up the warmth, a few eating lunch like me, and two couples throwing balls in the wave-less water for their dogs to catch.
      I knew the walk home was going to be warm enough to take off my jacket, and maybe there was an afternoon nap in the near future, which made me smile despite throwing away almost a full can of apple juice.

Posted in Writing: Travel: England | Tagged , , , | Comments Off on Not So Sweet

The Beach at Budleigh Salterton

My grandmother, who is 93, lives in the town of Budleigh Salterton.
Studly Balterton is what we called it as children.
The beach of this sleepy seaside village is completely covered in stones.
It makes a strange noise when the small waves rush up on the shore, something similar to a maraka, or one of those long sticks that hippie types turn upside side down to create white noise.
It is a good place to sit and stare out to sea, despite the hard stones underneath your ass.














This last photograph is a panorama, please click on to enlarge.

budleighsalterton

Posted in Photography: Travel: England | Tagged , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Soft Morning in Lympstone Harbour

Mid-morning, a few days ago, I walked down to the harbour in Lymptone and found the tide high, the sky covered, and the water perfectly calm.
So I took some photographs.

Posted in Photography: Travel: England | Tagged , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Molested in Tree Shaded Daylight

Last Thursday I was molested in tree shaded daylight.
After visiting Book Cycle, where I picked up another Terry Pratchett and a well-used and beautiful 1950’s Roget’s Thesaurus, I was now sitting in Exeter’s Cathedral Green with my bacon sandwich from Marks and Spencer.
The white intermittent clouds completely missed the suns rays so I sat under a tree to avoid the warmth. The green was filled with relaxing University students and I thought nothing bad could happen.
Until I was approached and pounced upon by a local resident.

It wasn’t so much the attack that bothered me,
but the others in the park just watched,
giving no attempt at help.
Some even smiled.
I was able to click a few photographs of the attack,
and have decided to subject my attacker to public humiliation,
rather than police action.

But be warned;
some of the images depict violent scenes.





















Then, after rubbing herself all over me, purring in my face, and promptly wolfing down the offered piece of bacon, she trotted off to another luncheon group, with her tail in the air, and never a look back.

Posted in Writing: Travel: England | Tagged , , , , , | 2 Comments

Exeter’s (Boring) Underground Passages.

      It’s the only underground tour in the whole of England, our guide says. And I was excited. My imagination rolled with so many things to be seen underneath the city of Exeter. There are 2000 year-old Roman walls scattered about the city, so underneath must be even more exciting. There would be rats and vast arches and dungeons with the chains still stapled to the wall. Maybe even a skull.
      I could see all this in my mind as my mother and I climbed the brightly lit modern steps down to the entrance.
      The tour had nothing like that.
      It was really quite boring.

      No wait, you don’t have to leave.
      It wasn’t that boring.
      Oh, you have to leave anyway?
      Ok, well,
      It’s just the two of us…
      That just makes it cozier.

      The reason the underground is not that exciting is because Exeter does not have an underground. No caves, no dungeons, no secret escape routes (at least none they told us about), just an aqueduct.
      The most important thing in medieval Exeter (other than beer of course) was water. The wells were outside the city walls, way over there on the east. The people wanted the water inside the city walls.
      So the ones with all the money, The Church, decided to build something to bring water to the center of town. They built a ditch, eight feet or so deep, lined the bottom and the sides with stone, then built an archway over the ditch, and then covered it with dirt.
      So they built an underground tunnel, without actually building an underground tunnel.
      Smart.
      And those who weren’t clergy could use the public fountain beside the cathedral or on the High Street (neither of which are still there, the fountains that is).
      This was all done in the 14th and 15th centurys. Some of the tunnels were removed when the old city gates was torn down to increase traffic flow, but a few of the tunnels are still there.
      The tunnels are shoulder width, and definitely much shorter than six foot three. So we put on flattering yellow hard hats.
      We shuffled and stooped our way down the tunnel, heading toward the cathedral. The tunnel didn’t go very far, about half a block, until it ended, so we turned back.
      On the way back there was a detour, for those who did not mind crawling a little way.
      So I detoured, crawled a little way, and that was the end of the tour.

      That’s it.
      I told you it wasn’t very exciting.
      Yes, that’s a great idea.
      And you’re buying as well?
      Ok, I’ll have a gin and tonic.

And now some pictures:

Huddled at the end of the tunnel.
2009sept11052

Showing off the 500 year-old ceiling and stone work.
2009sept11057

On our hands and knees.
2009sept11069

Posted in Writing: Travel: England | Tagged , , , | Comments Off on Exeter’s (Boring) Underground Passages.

The Tide, a Train, some Sheep, and a Sunken Boat

In the afternoon, when I should be at home, sitting in front of my laptop, madly typing away, or patiently editing photographs, I sometimes go for a walk, usually down the coast, toward Exmouth.
Both Lympstone and Exmouth are on the Exe estuary.
So my walk follows the edge of the coast.
An estuary is a strange thing, it is half river and half ocean. The river is at the same level as the sea, so it has become tidal with the ocean.
And the tide is huge, exposing large swaths of land at low tide.
I think the best way to illustrate this is with pictures.
Here is a picture of high tide, taken halfway between Lympstone and Exmouth, with the other side of the estuary in the distance.
(note for future reference: the tiny piece of metal sticking up from the water in the exact center of the photograph.)
2009sept21015
This picture was taken about noon, as I walked toward Exmouth, As you can see, the tide is high, splashing softly on the concrete breakwater in the bottom right corner.
The breakwater was built for the train tracks, more then a hundred years ago, when the branch line between Exeter and Exmouth was built.
The trains are unexciting diesel-electric and look like this when they pass by.

This is what it looks like when a single sheep pauses from its lunch, and looks up at the camera, while I pause on my walk to Exmouth.

Two hours later I return along the estuary walkway, and click the same photograph from the exact same spot.

That is how much the tide has moved out two hours, and it has another four hours to retreat. When the tide is low, the estuary becomes just a thin river, far in the distance.
There is something so beautiful and peaceful about sitting on the edge of the concrete, watching the water recede, slowly uncovering the hidden stones, seaweed, and of course the sunken boats.
That little piece of metal that was sticking out of the water in the first picture is actually the throttle handle for the remains of the boat sitting in the middle of the above picture.

I don’t know why the abandoned boat sitting on the edge of the estuary is so interesting to me. Maybe the Sci-Fi streak in me, that wants to know what the world would be like if we all disappeared.
What, 20 years from now, our beautiful machines would look like.
Or maybe it’s just an engine looks amazing covered with barnacles.

And so does the throttle handle.

Posted in Photography: Travel: England | Tagged , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

My New Favorite Bookstore

[RNLI = Royal National Lifeboat Institution]

Posted in Writing: Travel: England | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment